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About syd-monster

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    Adriana Lima's friend with benefits

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  1. hmm... lots of valid points here lads. Can i stew on this for a little?
  2. A little get together for the NSW boys

    Looking forward to this lads! Let me know if you need me to bring anything with me.
  3. sorry to hear, hope you find a resolution.
  4. hmm... haven't thought about this one. But interested in peoples opinions, for those that have/do try this.  The electrician in me screams CSA/contact area, but the rivnut it self is conductive, so provided there's little to none ESR in the joint, then I don't see why not.
  5. Road noise

    If your ever up close to hi-end late model BMW or Mercedes, you will see that they too use a carpet like lining in the wheel wells to cut down noise. The wind and tread noise from the tires is significant, but so is the noise from the engine coming away from these two areas. Carpet in there helps bring all that down
  6. Hi Tim, welcome to the forum.   Very specific problem you have there in your Discovery. Its likely that the mineral water has damaged parts of the system. If your handy, you could remove them out, send them to an electornics repair tech (general electronics repairs) and have them take a stab at it. Otherwise perhaps used parts from a wrecker?  Have you opened up this VOC unit a tried to clean/dry it out? Since its likely gone, your not going to loose anything by having a go.   The best news for you, is that Big Valven now owns a shop in Adelaide!! Google AV-DC  ( http://av-dc.com.au ) and pay them a visit or a call and I'm sure they will be able to do something with this OR with something after-market.     
  7. A little get together for the NSW boys

    Im def in!!
  8. Road noise

    - Specifically on your car, (being a Sedan)  behind the rear seats and partially into the trunk will be the inside of the wheel tubs, treat the metal well on the cabin side with a layer of stick on mass deadener (like Dynamat extreme) and a layer of foam or auto carpet underlay (jute) and this will also be a significant spot. Similar to the instructional videos linked above from STP (another great product range too). - Check that your tires are at the right pressure and on the right way, some tires make more noise when over or under inflated. They can also make more noise when poorly aligned, but I will trust that your car is in good mechanical repair. Also some tires are directional, they can be noisy when running the wrong way. - Also if you have a noisy sports exhaust, the factory air vent are near the rear muffler, you can either block that vent up (not recommended) or get a quieter exhaust. - Get a dash mat, hard to explain why, but modern Kia dash plastic is still kinda harsh and reflective (not as bad as they used to be). However a dash mat will reduce some noises in the cabin space near the front passengers, in all sorts of ways. (reflections, rain, wind, engine etc...) but its not as effective as the treatments the other lads and yourself have listed above. Its more like the icing on the cake.... These are more specific to your car, but also apply to the majority of sedans.
  9. For most amps, as you go lower in woofer impedance, ie 4ohm to 2ohm, you increase distortion too (plus a few other things change) the main benefit is increased Wattage created (most of which is heat). This distortion change used to be predominantly about double, so if an amp was rated at 100Wrms, at 4ohm, from 14.4v, on 100hz signal, it may have a 0.04% distortion output. In most A/B designs, going to 2ohm would make it 0.08% distortion, given all others being equal, but watts more or less doubled to 200Wrms. Some modern and fancy hybrid designs vary and good manufacturers print this too. Also the regulated power supplies many amps are getting these days change these figures too. As you increase gain, you tend to increase noise-floor and get closer to maxing out the power supply too. Others factors change when you go to a lower impedance, such as damping factor and temperature control etc... again modern amps have some of this give in built.  My advice is to set the gains using your best method (and a scope is pretty good, but combine it with a volt meter and a clamp Amp meter and you have 3 references) on the load you want to run, then set it to the max level your comfy with and then just wind it back a tad. This leaves some "give". Run some sweeps through the amp, ie a 20Hz to 120Hz track, and check your meters again. You may also want to repeat this when the system is hot/warm and with engine ON and OFF, to see how your set up reacts. Using just a DMM is not really dodgy, as its better than what 90% of what regular folk do, as they tend to just max the crap out of everything. Otherwise, do as I prefer and leave gains on absolute minimum (but still give you the lower end of satisfactory output), and adjust signal level in the processing (h/u or processor) instead.
  10. just make sure your connecting to the amp remote wire, not the antenna remote wire (coming out of the h/u).... easy enough mistake. If all else fails, connect the remote wire (going) to the amp to the factory switch wire the H/U uses to turn on/off...
  11. damm... were noticing that JB is moving away from car audio and hifi, they started out at JB "HiFi" but they growth means everday electronics retailer, their pricing isn't even that competitive anymore.
  12. Road noise

    +1, if you could tell us vehicle type and shape. Some basic outside/inside photos may help too. I also found that tire wells treated make a significant difference (deadner/exterior carpet), as does a modern/new exhaust, firewall foam/insulation and dampening on large flexible panels such as door skins. Also simple things like fabric seat cover, fabric/carpet floor mats, fabric/carpet dash mat, and a good clean out of loose items such as coins, tools, rubbish all add up.
  13. On Falcons, the factory locations (with MID woofer up high on the door and Tweets on the A pillars) are actually quite decent and have been proven to be great starting points. (for those who know, thinks Alans/Sierra's XR6 and DataMines LTD) All I would do is make sure the speakers are VERY well mounted and have the tweeters custom mounted so they are on axis (that is pointing at you) and not hidden behind the factory grill, as its a little restrictive. Its hard to say, yes step up to 3way, because 3-way passive is almost pointless as you really need 3-way active and processing to match to get the most out of it. I think the frank and fair answer is to stick wit 2-way for now. 3way can always come later...  and if you do want to go 3way, think about the extra amplification channels and processing needed to make it worth while.
  14. Glad to read that, and yes it all begins at the source (ie music you like, from a quality format & headunit).
  15. christ.... you're getting very good at this!!! and then some Personally, I prefer the no-claw design, as the whole point of the sphere is for its acoustic advantages on the outside, the less sphere it is, the less advantage. BUT, I also understand, how do you secure it? Hence the claw... Also in a car, would we really hear the difference? Probably only if you had the playing side by side.   Internal refractions are addressed with some light stuffing, but combine that with your multiple sided/edge design, its even better. On my own pods that I made a few years back this was simple enough. But these pods take it to a new level! impressive!   For those who CAN and are willing to use "f***-off" size screws for mounting to pillars/doors etc, and you have a plush ride, id suggest going for the no-claw on the base, but with the internal multi edge ball. For those who perhaps are in rougher terrains, do more Km's or drive less plush cars then the security offered by the claw design is a benefit, at the cost of a almost negligent difference. And what ever difference is there, goes away with driving or engine on anyway.